Who We Are
The Washington Anchor Replacement Project (WARP) is a non-profit organization with the core mission to replace aging and unsafe climbing anchors throughout Washington State. In 2016, WARP became a part of the Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC), and is run by the WCC board with focused committees and an advisory team which includes local IFMGA guide and WARP founder, Kurt Hicks.
WARP follows nationally recognized best practices for rebolting, utilizing stringent requirements and expectations in vetting candidates who apply for hardware grants. In addition, we require evidence of support from the relevant communities and land managers.
Many anchors on climbing routes in Washington State were placed over thirty years ago. A great number of these anchors have reached the end of their usable lifespan—after degrading from rust, use, and the elements. It is the goal of the Washington Anchor Replacement Project (WARP) to supply the gear necessary to replace this dangerous hardware with long lasting stainless steel anchors. For more information, please visit our Education page.
The Washington Anchor Replacement Project (WARP) began after seeing a pattern of deteriorating and sub-standard fixed protection across the state. Although a handful of individuals were slowly performing replacement work, it was clear that a more organized process would streamline the replacement efforts. WARP was founded in 2012 and is a Washington State 501(c)3 non-profit organization operated by the Washington Climbers Coalition since 2016.
WARP Recommended Best Practices
- Equipment is supplied one-for-one, with the expectation that existing placements will be reused wherever possible.
- Hand drills must be utilized for necessary replacement efforts in designated Wilderness.
- WARP does not necessarily advocate replacement of all old hardware—if modern, clean protection (nuts, cams, etc) can now protect a climb, the old hardware should not be replaced.
- Torque wrenches should always be used to ensure proper tension of replacement hardware.
- Fixed hardware should be camouflaged with spray paint (before replacement) to blend into the surrounding environment.
The Washington Anchor Replacement Project does not develop new climbs, scrub routes, or build trails.
Further Best practices information can be found at:
- The Access Fund: Fixed Anchors
- American Safe Climbing Association
- Fixe Hardware: Installation Videos
All replacement work supplied by the Washington Anchor Replacement Project is done by skilled and trained volunteers—mountain guides, Search & Rescue teams, and other climbers who are interested in giving back to their community. These individuals have gone through an application and vetting process prior to receiving any hardware from WARP. See Get Involved! for more information about how to apply for a Hardware Grant or how to donate to the cause.
WARP only supplies hardware recommended or certified for climbing use. All replacement bolts, hangers, quicklinks, rap rings and chains are stainless steel, thanks to generous donations from the community and wholesale pricing or gear donations from Fixe Hardware and Petzl.
Climbing is inherently dangerous. You may be seriously injured or die. Obtain professional instruction before entering into the sport. Use fixed anchors, bolts, pitons, webbing, and other protection at your own risk. Please become knowledgeable about the risks involved and be willing to assume personal responsibility for your actions. You should not depend on any information gleaned from this website for your personal safety; your safety depends on your own good judgment, based on experience and a realistic assessment of your ability. There are no warranties, expressed or implied, that this website is accurate or reliable. Your use of this site indicates your assumption of the risk that this website may contain errors and is an acknowledgement of your own sole responsibility.