About WARP

The Washington Anchor Replacement Project (WARP) began after seeing a pattern of deteriorating and sub-standard fixed protection across the state. Although a handful of individuals were slowly performing replacement work, it was clear that a more organized process would streamline the replacement efforts. WARP was founded in 2012 and is a Washington State 501(c)3 non-profit organization.

WARP Practices
Equipment is replaced one-for-one, reusing the existing placements wherever possible. Hand drills are utilized for necessary replacement efforts in designated Wilderness. WARP does not necessarily replace all old hardware—if modern, clean protection (nuts, cams, etc) can now protect a climb, the old hardware is not replaced. Torque wrenches are used whenever possible to ensure proper tensioning of replacement hardware. Finally, equipment is camouflaged with spray paint (before replacement) to blend into the surrounding environment.

The Washington Anchor Replacement Project does not develop new climbs, scrub routes, or build trails.

Volunteers
All replacement work completed by the Washington Anchor Replacement Project is done by skilled and trained volunteers—mountain guides, Search & Rescue teams, and other climbers who are interested in giving back to their community.

Hardware
WARP only uses hardware that is recommended or certified for climbing use. All replacement bolts, hangers, and quicklinks are stainless steel. Pitons are evaluated on a case-by-case basis. In the backcountry, pitons are replaced one-for-one, while in the frontcountry pitons may be removed if modern gear protects it or a bolt may be used to minimize repeated damage caused by piton removal and replacement.

Rappel chains are typically plated steel. This is due to the high expense of stainless steel chain (triple the price of plated); given that this hardware is easy to inspect, it is a reasonable compromise, allowing the Washington Anchor Replacement Project to make its limited resources go further.